One man’s culinary journey into sushi
By Jason Whaley
AMERICAN-STATESMAN STAFF
It was not a case of fear; it was more the probability of disgust. Raw is not how we serve fish in my hometown. It is a process that involves catfish, bass or crappie deep-fried to perfection. French fries and hush puppies are standard accoutrements, and the beverage best paired with this iconic Southern diner is a thin American beer, preferably Coors Light or Budweiser.
So, it was a little unnerving when a couple of friends suggested that we eat sushi for lunch a few months ago. I figured there would be something on the menu that would not initiate a gag reflex. I politely agreed to try a couple of rolls. They were solid, not fishy tasting and better than I had imagined. I have always been someone who welcomes new experiences, but for some reason sushi has been a culinary door not to be opened under any circumstance.
May this one attempt have revealed that raw fish was not some horrible dish reserved for the bold or wealthy. Maybe that is all it took for me to turn into the parking lot of Nanami one Tuesday afternoon with no real intention. I was not even that hungry, but I was bored with the usual eateries.
I walked up to the sushi counter and told the man that I was a sushi beginner in need of guidance. A subtle smile formed on his lips. “Don’t worry, you’re about to get an education,” he said. I introduced myself and he did the same, then class was in session.
There is no way I could have chosen a better teacher than Jason Liao, head chef at Nanami Sushi Bar & Grill at 9001 Brodie Lane. He started with the basics, nothing too fancy. He served nigiri sushi, which is a type of Japanese dish made with sushi rice and fresh fish. The sushi rice is hand-formed into a small clump, and the fish is sliced and pressed on top if it. He would make one piece, explain the type of fish and seasoning used, wait for me to finish, and then begin another piece. I was fascinated by his knowledge and presentation, and with each new taste my previous concerns with raw fish evaporated.
The biggest misconception I had was that there would be a washed up on the beach for days and partially decomposed sardine taste. There was not. Each piece had a unique texture with a multitude of subtle flavors. Some were light with a citrus kick while others were spicy and smooth. We finished the meal with freshwater eel. I could not believe what I was sliding into my mouth but had already put complete faith in Liao’s judgement. It was a good call.
Armed with the comfort of having a positive sushi experience with someone I trusted, going to Nanami became a series of lunch adventures. Each time I walked in, Liao would take me a step further in this education. I didn’t order, he just made whatever he wanted, and my palate expanded. I also learned a new way to eat. For years, my main goal at meals was to inhale food as quickly as possible and wait for the bloated feeling. Taste was an afterthought. But now I wanted to slow down and try to detect all the flavors. I wanted to understand how this unwarranted bias had developed and deprived me of sushi all these years. With each successive stop in the restaurant, I began to realize this was not about a primal necessity, but the experience of enjoying food.
“Sushi is meant to be savored, it’s meant to be a delicacy,” Liao said. “I tell people, only order a little at a time. Enjoy each piece. If everything comes at once, they will be tempted to rush it and miss the true flavors.”
I also learned some basic rules that serve to enhance the sushi experience. For starters, do not mix wasabi, soy sauce and ginger with the sushi. These are all strong tastes that will mask the flavor of the fish. A little goes a long way. I learned that the hard way by spearing a big clump of wasabi on my chopsticks just to try it. It felt like a Dumpster fire had broken out in my mouth and spread down to my toes. The ginger is meant to cleanse the palate between each piece so only take a bite between rounds.
I got used to the flavors and the delivery of nigiri sushi. I began to figure out which fish I preferred and why. Then during one visit, everything changed. Liao decided to accelerate the learning curve. It was time for sashimi.
This was the root of all my fears. Just raw fish. No rice accompaniment. No hiding behind seaweed or sauce. It was time to take the next step, and it was surprisingly easy.
One thing I began to appreciate was his presentation; it was not just about preparation and flavor. The sashimi is where he made masterpieces. I did not want to eat them at first because they were visually stunning. Yellowtail tartar and salmon roe with avocado puree, and tuna ceviche with butter-seared sea scallops and snapper chips were two of my favorites.
Each dish was more intricate than the last. It was hard to imagine that I once considered French fries with ranch dressing as exotic. But this is part of life’s progression, learning new things and opening yourself up to new experiences that can change you for the better.
I now understand the appeal of sushi. It helps to have someone whose guidance you trust, someone who can help you digest the food and knowledge of this Asian cuisine and not just serve fish on a plate.
“Food is like theater, it’s an art form,” Liao said. “I want people to come in here and experience new things and be excited about their food. When people leave, I want Nanami to be an unforgettable place, a place to return and savor the experience.”
Hogs offense will induce nightmares for opposing defenses
By Jason Whaley
AMERICAN-STATESMAN STAFF
Posted Sep 1, 2010
What better month than July to scout teams that shape up as the hottest ones heading into the college football season? Grab a cold drink and read along as the American-Statesman counts down its annual preseason Top 25.
No. 16. Arkansas
Coach: Bobby Petrino (3rd year)
2009 record: 8-5
2009 bowl: Defeated East Carolina 20-17 in overtime in Liberty Bowl.
Off. returners: 10
Def. returners: 7
Scary good on offense
Defensive coordinators will have nightmares the week before their teams play the Razorbacks, and their worries will start with quarterback Ryan Mallett. The former Texarkana star broke several records at Arkansas in 2009, including single-season marks for most passing yards (3,627) and touchdown passes (30). For 2010, Mallett has the luxury of an experienced and deep group of receivers. Juniors Greg Childs (894 yards, 7 TDs in ’09), Jarius Wright (681 yards, 5 TDs) and Joe Adams (568 yards, 7 TDs) will be the main targets. Senior tight end D.J. Williams, meanwhile, was an All-SEC selection in 2008.
Ground game under repair
Petrino is known as one of the top offensive minds in college football, but one aspect of the Razorbacks’ attack was not up to his standards last season — the running game. To remedy the problem, Petrino hired offensive line coach Chris Klenakis away from Nevada. Klenakis was one of the originators of the “Pistol” offense, which a year ago helped the Wolf Pack become the first team in NCAA history to have three players rush for more than 1,000 yards in a season. The Razorbacks will have four running backs to choose from, but the best could be Ronnie Wingo Jr. The 6-foot-3-inch, 218-pound sophomore averaged 6.5 yards per carry last year, including a 62-yard touchdown run against Texas A&M.
Defense hold the key
There are high hopes in Fayetteville because of the potent offense, but this team will only be as successful as the defense allows. Arkansas gave up 3,230 yards and 22 touchdowns through the air last year, with five teams throwing for 300 yards or more. The Pigs also were last in the SEC in total defense, allowing 5,215 yards. There are, however, some positives heading into this season. Senior Rudell Crim played cornerback last year, but has been moved to safety, where he made big plays in the spring. Darius Winston, one of the top-ranked defensive backs coming out of high school in 2008, also has shown significant improvement since his freshman season and is expected to start.
A more friendly schedule
Playing an SEC schedule is never easy, but the Hogs have better prospects for 2010. Florida has been replaced by Vanderbilt, and Alabama and LSU have to travel to the Natural State. The Hogs also get Ole Miss and Vanderbilt at home, but the possibility of improving on last year’s 8-5 record will be settled on the road. If Arkansas can win at Georgia, Auburn and South Carolina, then a divisional title is likely.
Rankings in review: 25. Auburn; 24. West Virginia; 23. North Carolina; 22. Georgia; 21. Pittsburgh; 20. Cincinnati; 19. Oregon State; 18. LSU; 17. Penn State
Greenbelt’s ‘Hill of Life’ surely will be the death of me
By Jason Whaley
AMERICAN-STATESMAN STAFF
I’m on a mission. It involves getting up a steep hill with no pavement and no forgiveness.
To be successful, it will require a bike, patience and power. I only have one of those three.
Tackling roots, rocks, limbs and dirt is not on the agenda for the places I usually ride, but rather than navigating by street signs, I’ve been using an odd-shaped boulder or a downed tree to find the way home. And if there’s a crash, there’s less road rash. Dirt doesn’t peel off skin as efficiently as pavement does.
Yes, I’m finding it’s a different world on a mountain bike. The riding is more about proper technique than pure fitness, and it’s more of a cerebral experience.
There are more than 130 miles of trail in Central Texas, Austin Ridge Riders Mountain Bike Club president Judi Ronkartz says, so living here provides ample opportunity for mountain bike junkies to get their fix. The Barton Creek Greenbelt — the quintessential trail system — is right in the heart of the city and a gold mine for exploration and challenges.
Upon first glance, it appears to be a straightforward trail that’s nearly eight miles long, and winds its way along the creek from Zilker Park to the Woods of Westlake subdivision, just off Loop 360. But there’s much more out there to ride. Much more.
But you won’t find these trails on any map. You’ll have to discover them for yourself or ask Greenbelt veterans, who may or may not give up the location of these gems.
One of Barton Creek’s best challenges is easily found. It sits proudly at the end of the main trail, ready to dole out punishment whenever provoked. Beating the Hill of Life is my personal goal. To make it up this slope without putting a foot down would signify that my skills are truly improving.
“We’ve been riding that hill for over 20 years,” said Bicycle Sport Shop owner Hill Abell, who’s a member of the Mountain Bike Hall of Fame in Crested Butte, Colo. “It used to be easier, but the city put in concrete water bars that eroded over time and left ledges. It’s loose and steep, and it’s a tough challenge.”
The climb gains more than 300 feet in less than half a mile. And while it might not sound terribly daunting, there’s more to the equation. It’s littered with loose rocks that make for difficult traction, and there are those concrete ledges to hop up and over, each one sapping a rider’s momentum.
There also is no protection from the sun, as the canopy of trees that lines the rest of the trail disappears. It’s brutal. And it can chomp down hard.
“I had a disastrous accident there in 1988,” Abell said. “Descending was a big thing back then because we didn’t have bikes with big knobby tires, so going downhill was much easier. So I was flying down the hill when one of my grips popped off. The handlebars turned sharply, and it launched me into the ground. I messed up my arm pretty good and had to have surgery.”
Still not convinced it’s a beast? Abell says he trained for the Leadville 100 last year by riding repeats on the Hill of Life. The Leadville is a punishing 100-mile mountain bike race in Colorado that includes more than 12,000 feet of elevation gain.
I certainly do not have the skill or fitness required to tackle such an event, but I can start small with Austin’s own little devil of a climb.
I’ve made four legitimate attempts up the Hill of Life in the short time I’ve been riding dirt, and it revealed its fangs early on try No. 1. A couple of minutes into the climb, I decided I should stand on the pedals to gain more power. Bad call. Loose rocks caused the rear wheel to spin out, and I went down chest-first on the handlebar. There’s not a lot of cushion between the sternum and skin.
On my second attempt, I made it about halfway up before a ledge stopped my momentum. I slowly came to a stop, and with no energy left to unclip from the pedal, I fell over on the bike and skidded a couple of feet to a halt.
This defeat was not a proud moment. I had to walk the bike down the hill in front of an audience of grinning hikers.
I put in some solid preparation for the third try. I fueled up with carbs, was well-rested and had practiced proper technique. A little more than halfway up, the biochemical stew of lactic acid burning in my muscles was building to a crescendo. I knew I was running out of time. Then a bee flew into my mouth. Ride over. Nothing like burning legs and a stinging insect on your tongue to squash all motivation.
But if you think the Hill of Life’s obstacles are only anchored to the trail, think again. It will throw anything and everything at you to cause failure.
I planned my fourth attempt as a fitting end for this story last week, with the idea that I could announce a triumphant success.
It didn’t happen.
Even a lightweight hardtail Stumpjumper with huge 29-inch wheels (the ultimate in mountain bike efficiency) wasn’t enough to deliver the prize. I started off like a man possessed, pedaling with fury in my heart and fire in my legs. Everything was right. The bike felt tight, the wheels were gripping, and my weight was centered on the tip of the saddle.
Then the Hill of Life awoke. It was not pleased to have another biker scurrying up its spine.
Rocks that had been of no concern became loose and testy. The concrete ledges that were negotiable a few days before chewed at my pedals and held on tightly to my back wheel. Momentum turned to slow motion, power melted away like the salty tears stinging my eyes, and my steed slowly, surely came to a stop.
Hill of Life 4, Me 0.
But this is why I ride, and one day there will be success.
jwhaley@statesman.com; 912-2541
Palo Duro Canyon is worth the drive for mountain bikers
By Jason Whaley
AMERICAN-STATESMAN STAFF
As a Central Texas resident, driving to the Panhandle for a mountain biking excursion didn’t seem to make much sense. Why bother with an achingly long drive when we are blessed with a multitude of diverse trails in and around Austin?
The answer is simple and probably surprising to some — Palo Duro Canyon. Maybe you’ve seen pictures, read something about it or talked to someone who has made the trek. But until you’ve actually experienced it, there’s no way to truly understand its rugged beauty or potential as a mountain biking nirvana.
My initial thought was to explore the canyon by hiking. But a little research revealed that more than 30 miles of trails are open to cyclists. There’s even a Texas Mountain Bike Racing Association event held in September and a 24 Hours in the Canyon event benefiting the Lance Armstrong Foundation going on this weekend.
And yet most off-road addicts that I’ve talked to in Austin don’t seem to know much, if anything, about riding in that part of the state. Places like Fruita, Colo., or Moab, Utah, inspire the true reverence. But I’m here to unveil the Panhandle, and Palo Duro in particular, as a fantastic option for a mountain biking vacation.
The main drawback for this journey is the drive. I’m not going to lie — it’s long. Depending on the route, it’s roughly 500 miles one way from Austin.
Once you head north from Interstate 20, there’s a distinct shift in scenery. You enter the land of cattle drive innovator Charlie Goodnight, windmill farms and Red Raiders. It’s also vertically challenged. You get an eye full of eternity in any direction with few obstructions. The canyon doesn’t seem to belong with its flat exterior. There’s relief seeing the ground suddenly split into an oasis of vibrant reds, greens and oranges. Within its borders, miles of fantastic trails await your arrival.
The signature trail is the Lighthouse, so named for the distinctive rock formation that resembles a seafarer’s beacon. After you pay a $5 per person fee at the park entrance, it’s a short drive to the canyon floor. From the trailhead, it’s a 5.7-mile roundtrip of sticky red dirt that weaves its way around canyon walls and through sandy creek beds.
This trail is not overly technical, although there are some obstacles that could induce a crash if you are not careful. But the nice thing about the design is it can be as tough or easy as you please. There are bypass trails that offer a detour around the tough stuff and then rejoin the main path. So even if you are a novice like me, this trail is not intimidating. It’s important to know that you cannot reach the Lighthouse formation directly from the trail, so if you want to make the climb to see it, bring a lock to secure your bike to the rack at its base. Be warned: The remaining hike is very steep, so save some energy for the other trails.
There are two fantastic trails that intersect the Lighthouse: the Givens, Spicer & Lowry Running Trail (also bike accessible) and the Capitol Peak Trail. Both routes offer various levels of difficulty, but the Givens, Spicer & Lowry presents some technical sections. I had to walk the bike up part of this steep and rocky single track. But the whole thing is ridable, especially for those with skills and experience. There is also a loop at the end of this trail (the Little Fox Canyon Trail) that is pure single track. It’s a great place to let it rip.
I also recommend hitting the Capitol Peak trail. It’s mostly red dirt single track with a few opportunities to grab some air. There are quick climbs and descents to keep you honest.
The one constant on every trail is the scenery. It’s breathtaking. The red claystone and white layers of gypsum make it hard to keep your attention on the obstacles ahead. The wildlife can also steal your attention. I’m not a big fan of rattlesnakes, but they are slithering around in healthy numbers. There are also deer, roadrunners, turkey, coyotes, aoudad sheep, bobcats and my personal favorite, mountain lions. After seeing my loud yellow jacket, one local hiker joked: “You shouldn’t wear bright, shiny clothing, it excites the cats. Also, appear large if you’re confronted.” The only thing you have to do if confronted by a lion is ride faster than the people around you. Actually seeing those cats is a rare thing, and not something to be feared.
One thing to remember is that unlike Central Texas, the canyon floor holds little humidity, so it is easy to overlook how quickly dehydration can occur. Taking extra water is a must for safety, especially for a summer visit.
After you have worn yourself out on the trails in Palo Duro Canyon, there are still more options for getting dirty on the bike.
Check out Caprock Canyons State Park in Quitaque, which is about 78 miles southeast of Canyon. In addition to more canyon riding, there is also a 64-mile rail-to-trail conversion. This multiuse trail crosses 46 bridges and runs through the 742-foot-long Clarity tunnel. The trailhead begins in South Plains, runs through Quitaque and ends in Estelline.
After riding some of these stunning landscapes, I became a believer. And while it was easy to forget I was in Texas, it wasn’t easy to leave. I hope people who love mountain biking will ride in the Panhandle. The experience is way more interesting than the expectation.
If you go
When it’s time to get off the bike, there are plenty of options for lodging.
If you like air conditioning and room service, then the most convenient place to stay is in the town of Canyon, which is on Interstate 27, about 13 miles west of Palo Duro. There are plenty of hotels, and several Thai restaurants, in this little college town.
If you would rather stay in the park, there are cabins with nice views of the canyon. A pair of two-room cabins on the canyon rim each have a bathroom and twin futon beds with bedding provided. The cost is $100 per night plus entrance fee. There is also a slightly larger cabin, the Sorenson, that is $115 per night plus entrance fee.
Inside the park, there are many campsites, all of which charge $12 per four people. For information on staying in the park, visit palodurocanyon.com.